Madhur Jaffrey Kerala-style ‘Bhuna’ Lamb (or Pork, Beef or Veal)

One of the many Indian classic dishes that appears on p39 in the “Ultimate Curry Bible” by Madhur Jaffrey (see the review in the Library section of this blog)

Having tried several of the lamb dishes in this book, this is a personal favourite of mine and the times I have made it with friends round to eat it has always gone down very well. People always comment just how “tasty” this dish is, which is always a good sign for a recipe I feel!

Interestingly the method can be used with different meats, and the introduction in the book to the recipe states that the different religious groups eat the different meats in Kerala, and that Kerala is the only state where it is legal to sell beef. I usually cook this is a the original lamb dish, but have also tried the beef and found that equally as good. On the pages prior to the recipe in the book there is also some interesting details into ‘The Origins of Bhuna’ as a cooking method and the history to this thick sauce.

The ingredients call for boneless lamb shoulder, but I tend to use lamb neck fillet as I both prefer it in this recipe, and find it readily available. The longer, slow cooking time really makes the difference and the meat is beautiful and soft, though still with a good texture. In addition, this sauce is just as good, if not better, the following day and keeps well. I often make a double batch of this and freeze some for a later date for a quick and tasty meal.

As with many curry recipes, don’t be put off with the ingredients. With his dish the making of the spice powder may seen a “faff”, but believe me it is worth it and actually very quick and straightforward. One of the best kitchen gadgets I have acquired recently is a spice/paste grinder. I used to always think they were a gimmick, but they make life considerably easier than the pestle and mortar workout!

Ingredients

2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds

4 tablespoons whole coriander seeds

2 teaspoons whole mustard seeds

2-4 whole dried chillies – I tend to use 2 long dried chillies as find that is sufficient

2 teaspoons whole fennel seeds

2 teaspoons whole fenugreek seeds

5 tablespoons oil – book says corn/peanut but simple vegetable also works

3 large shallots, about 140g/5oz, peeled and finely chopped – I have often substituted onion here to no detrimental effect

4cm/1½ inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely]y chooped – I have also used ginger ready-made paste when no fresh.

5-6 cloves garlic – peeled and finely chopped – I tend to grate or crush for ease

10-15 fresh curry leaves – I have often substituted dried

2 medium tomatoes – peeled and finely chopped – at a push a couple of whole tinned will suffice, but fresh are better. Seems fiddly to peel tomotoes, but is worth it so no skin in the dish.

900g / 2lb boneless lamb shoulder , cut into 3cm/1¼ inch pieces – I generally prefer to use lamb neck fillets for this piece. 900g is a lot of meat, and serves 4-6 the recipe states. I tend to use approx. 500g neck fillet with the same sauce ingredients and this works very well, serving a good 4 portions.

1¼ – 1½ teaspoons salt – this is quite a bit of salt, I tend to reduce to 1/2 – 1 teaspoon

250ml/8fl oz water

You will also need a deep, lidded pan to cook the dish in and ideally a spice grinder, failing that a pestle and mortar.

As the title suggests you can use pork shoulder, or stewing veal or beef instead of the lamb – just adjust the cooking time as per the method.

As you can see from the picture if the finished dish, I also like to finish the dish with some fresh coriander. This is by no means a necessity, just that I like it!

Method – this is way I make it, not necessarily the same steps as the recipe in the book!

Firstly prep everything and together the spices in the way they are to be added to this dish, this saves time and confusion later on. I normally use some bowls to collate the different ingredients ready for easy adding to the pan.

In separate small bowls/dishes bring together

· the cumin, coriander, mustard fenugreek and fennel seeds, along with the dried chillies

· Chop the shallots/onion and put together with the ginger and garlic

Put a small frying pan on a medium heat and when hot dry fry the seeds with the chillies. Shake the pan and stir them around for a minute or two until they get a bit darker and start to release their aromas. Then immediately take the pan off the heat and empty the seeds into a bowl to cool a bit. Then either, grind to a powder in a spice grinder or use a pestle and mortar to grind to a powder as fine as you can.

Heat the oil in a wide pan over a medium high heat until it is hot. Now add the shallots, ginger and garlic frying for approximately 5 mins whilst stirring until they are soft and turning brown. Add the curry leaves along with the tomatoes and cook until a thick reduced sauce – use a wooden spoon to help this process along pushing the tomatoes against the side of the pan.

Next add the spices and stir into the paste, cooking them out for about a minute. Then add the meat, along with the salt and cook for 5 mins, stirring whilst the meat browns.

Add the water, and bring to a simmer. Then cover tightly with the lid, reduce heat and simmer gently for approximately 80 mins until the lamb is tender. I check every now and again, give everything a stir to ensure even cooking.

If using other meats then cook for roughly the same time, though if using beef then the recipe suggests, and experience agrees when I cook the beef version, an additional 10 mins cooking. As always, nothing like a check yourself, the meat should be tender, though still be holding together after this long cooking.

Finally remove the lid for the final cooking, for a few minutes to reduce the sauce. The original recipe states, and the traditional sauce is, a thick, reduced sauce that clings to the meat. When I make with the neck fillet explained above, with less meat it is still a thick sauce but there is more of it – as I like!

I sprinkle some coriander on the top – mostly because I love coriander, esp on a rich dish like this, but then is entirely optional.

Serve as you wish with rice or breads, but this thick, rich sauce lends itself to breads in my opinion and I usually serve with chapatti primarily.

Enjoy!